How To Upgrade 2010 4runner Backup Camera

I already wrote this guide, but it was lost during the hack a few weeks ago. Gauge I'll blazon information technology once again from scratch.

My rear view camera shorted out later on washing my motorcar. Only displayed a black screen with occasional static. I was going to replace information technology with another OEM photographic camera, but they are going for about $500 and used cameras were non much better.

I decided to replace the camera with an aftermarket camera. The biggest problem with this is that the OEM camera uses 6v instead of the much more than common 12V. I found some 6v cameras, but they were either very expensive or months away in china.

This guide shows specifically how to replace the camera at the OEM location, but yous tin can also use this to know how to wire in an aftermarket location at a relocated location, such as when you install a swing out bumper.

To do this you will need:
- A 12V backup photographic camera. In theory you can utilise whatsoever 12V fill-in camera, but I would used this one because it resembles the shape of the OEM cam.
- A DC to DC heave converter.
- A soldering iron
- Compress tubing
- Hot glue
- Drill
- Wire strippers
- Very small-scale flathead screwdriver.
- Wire loom harness tape or similar.

Start, remove the camera. I used this guide. It was fairly easy.

This is the wiring diagram from the FSM. I assumed that CGND = camera ground, CB+ = Camera 6V positive, CV- = camera feed ground, and CV+ = camera feed positive. I causeless correctly.

This is the wiring diagram that I created on how to connect the photographic camera. You are going to use the heave converter to bump the 6V up to the needed 12V. You could likewise power the camera from another 12V source, simply this was much easier.

Here is what y'all should take once you take the photographic camera removed using the guide:

I used a mixture of a drill and hotknife to alter the OEM photographic camera mountain to fit the new photographic camera. I had to slot the holes in a small amount as well as remove some plastic so that the photographic camera sat flush with the mount. Luckily the new camera had close mounting hole dimensions to the onetime cam.

Here it is later attaching it.

Cut and so strip the cablevision off of the OEM camera.

Solder the heave converter to the OEM cable using the diagram to a higher place as a reference. Do Not attach the photographic camera yet. Plug the cable back into the car and then move the key to the RUN position. This will provide 6V to the boost converter. Using a minor screwdriver, accommodate the boost converter until you are seeing roughly 12V on the OUT side. Anything between 12V and 14V should be fine. Once this is done, remove the cable and pull out the primal.

Wire and then estrus shrink everything upward using the diagram I made in a higher place. I used some hot mucilage to waterproof the heave converter.

Plug information technology in and then test information technology by starting up the car and putting it in reverse. The camera should be working now.

Wrap everything upwardly in wire loom harness tape or similar.

Reinstall the photographic camera. I folded the cable over itself then taped it.

Unless you know exactly what OEM looks similar, information technology looks similar an OEM camera.

The photographic camera quality is excellent and seems to be much crisper than the stock camera. Low lite quality is also nifty. It does have parking assist lines that don't line up with the floor, but it doesn't bother me much. If this bothers you in that location are cameras available that accept the option to disable the lines. The but thing I don't similar about it is that information technology seems to not show the view as loftier as the OEM camera. I can't encounter the "horizon" on a level surface. Not a big deal though.

I later placed the OEM camera in a vice and opened information technology, or more accurately described exploded it, to come across the inside. The pocket-size lath inside didn't have any visible water harm, but information technology is a small-scale board then it would exist hard to tell. The steel frame around the lath had visible rust though, and so I call back it is safe to say that the failure mode was h2o ingress into the camera.

Source: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/266780-guide-how-use-aftermarket-rear-view-camera-stock-head-unit.html

Posted by: merlinawayet1963.blogspot.com

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